24 replies to this topic

[BhaiSukhSingh]

The Lost Palace

A majestic palace unlike any other once glimmered in the waters of the sacred pool of nectar at Amritsar. Learn about what was once one of the largest and most magnificent structures of its kind at the Darbar Sahib complex. Follow the history of the lost palace and the space it occupied from its origins in the Sikh Empire, to British Rule and eventually modern times.

1854 painting of the lost palace superimposed on a modern photograph showing the exact location and size of the palace.

This is the scene that one would see standing on the south parkarma today if the palace still existed.
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The Bungas of Darbar Sahib

As a spiritual and inspirational hub of Sikhism The Darbar Sahib complex in the city of Amritsar has always been a very special place for Sikhs.

Surrounding the sacred pool of nectar at Darbar Sahib the leading members of the Sikh misls (confederacies) first established their residences and palaces (bungas) at Amritsar in the late 18th century. After a dark period, Darbar Sahib was reconstruction in 1764 after repeated destruction by Ahmad Shah Durrani and Sikhs began to enjoy a period of relative peace in Punjab where they were no longer fighting for survival as a people. With the rise of Maharaja Ranjit Singhs empire and its prosperity, at their height there were over 84 bungas around the sacred pool.

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In the centre of the city of Umritsir is a gigantic reservoir of water, from the midst of which rises a magnificent temple, where the Grunth ( the holy book of the Sikhs ) is read day and night. Around this sheet of water are the houses of the maharajah, the ministers, sirdars, and other wealthy inhabitants.
Thirty-five Years in the East
L.M. Honigberger, London, 1852

Some of these palaces (bungas) were used as centers of religious teaching and education while most served as the residences of some of the powerful aind influential families of Punjab. Being on the sacred pool these palaces offered an intimate view and connection with Darbar Sahib.

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Amritsar, 1859.
In the centre of the tank rose a gorgeous temple of marble, the roof and minarets being encased in gilded metal; marble pavements, fresco paintings, added to the splendour of the scene, and round the outer circle sprung up a succession of stately buildings for the accommodation of the sovereign and his court. The establishment of no noble was complete, who had not his bhunga at Amritsar.
Linguistic and Oriental Essays
Robert Needham Cust, London, 1880
The Tulao, or pool, struck me with surprise. It is about 150 paces square, and has a large body of water, which to all appearance is supplied by a natural artesian well. There are no sign of the spring to be seen. It is surrounded by a pavement about 20 to 25 paces in breadth. Round this square are some of the most considerable houses of the city, and some buildings belonging to the temple, the whole being inclosed by gates: although one can look very conveniently from the windows of the houses into this inclosed space, and some of the doors even open into it.
Travels in Kashmir and the Panjab
Baron Charles Hugel, translated from German with notes by Major T.B. Jervis, 1845

Over time eventually almost all of the bungas have disappeared, being replaced by new structures; today the only two remaining bungas are the Akal Takht (Akal Bunga) and the twin towers of the Ramgharia Bunga. Although they are long gone, the palaces (bungas) of Amritsar live on in memory and are still remembered every day in the common Sikh prayer of Ardas:

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Chukiaan’, Jhandae, Bun:gae jugo j-ugg atall, dharam kaa jaaekaar. Bolo jee Vaaheguroo.
May the bungas, the banners, the cantonments abide from age to age. May the cause of truth and justice prevail everywhere at all times, utter, Wondrous God!.




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[genie]

fascinating read, thanks for sharing. I never took much notice of that palace building before in that painting but reading the extra information on it really puts a different insight on the darbar complex

[JagjeetST]

What actually happened to the palace i.e. how did it become lost or was it just replaced?

[sachasoormaa]

Thats jus crazy :o

[SINGH4PEACE]

If it was a huge structure as shown in above pictures and created by elite group of Sardars during ranjit singh era for their own families or clan then i am glad that such structure is not in this place today. Such huge structure takes the importance of aasthan of main darbar sahib diwan hall.

To me, any historic building built during maharaja ranjit time is very important cultural era buildings and fine if it was demolished like 100 yrs ago. However structure made during guru sahib jees period is our religious matter and should be preserved at all cost.

If i am not mistaken, most of the houses that used to be on 4 sides of parkarama sahib belonged to private families or reserved for sangat belonging to specific area of sikh raj. Many modifications were needed and made as time passes, for example: during old days, an opening of Baba Sri Chand mandir/praying place was from inside parkarma sahib. It got closed many decades ago and now you can see the entrance to this place from the outer premises of Sri Darbar Sahib (between Saran housing gate and Ghanta ghar).

[chatanga]

If it was a huge structure as shown in above pictures and created by elite group of Sardars during ranjit singh era for their own families or clan then i am glad that such structure is not in this place today. Such huge structure takes the importance of aasthan of main darbar sahib diwan hall.

That really depends on how you approach it. The Shaheedi asthan of Guru Tegh Bahadur is minor compared to Lal KIla, but which SIkh notices Lal Kila when they go to see the place where Guru Ji became shaheed?

The missing palace whether it was for "elitist" sardars, or not, was a valuable part of our Sikh heritage, and a reminder of where we once stood amongst the world's peoples.

To me, any historic building built during maharaja ranjit time is very important cultural era buildings and fine if it was demolished like 100 yrs ago. However structure made during guru sahib jees period is our religious matter and should be preserved at all cost.

So we should take the gold leaf off Darbar Sahib, and reduce Sri Akal Takht Sahib of its upper 2 storey's?

If i am not mistaken, most of the houses that used to be on 4 sides of parkarama sahib belonged to private families or reserved for sangat belonging to specific area of sikh raj. Many modifications were needed and made as time passes, for example: during old days, an opening of Baba Sri Chand mandir/praying place was from inside parkarma sahib. It got closed many decades ago and now you can see the entrance to this place from the outer premises of Sri Darbar Sahib (between Saran housing gate and Ghanta ghar).

There were also many bungas on the sides of the parikramas and these taught gurmat to the visitors who came to Sri Darbar Sahib. The Udasi Bunga was left deliberately on the outside when Sri Darbar Sahib was walled around. Sri Darbar Sahib was a great place of learning, but now you can go to the Golden Temple, and not learn much, if anything.

[West London Singh]

What actually happened to the palace i.e. how did it become lost or was it just replaced?

John Gordon, the cheif engineer of Punjab, had a master plan for Amritsar. The master plan had the Golden temple at its epicentre. He conducted alot of works. Frankly, the lost palace is the last thing on my mind. The one that is permanently on my mind is the one that I think Sikh scholars mistakingly dismiss. They dismiss it because, alot of them are not based in England and so do not have a good understanding of what a traditional English village church looks like. I'm talking here about the clock tower at the Golden temple. John Gordon built a church there. A proper English villahe church. All the old photos of Amritsar show it as Amritsars most imposing structure, which, of course, was the purpose all along. But....sikh scholars, dismiss it as simply a spire with a weather vane on top. If thats the case, then every time we uk sikhs drive home after work, just remember all those village churches we see, built in the 18th century, that look exactly like the one built at the golden temple, are not churches at all. They're simply spires with weather vanes on top. Apparently.
As for the palace....That looked like a beautifully crafted building. Would have been wonderfull to keep it .

[singher23]

What are the buildings around Darbar Sahib in the walls used for today?

[genie]

John Gordon, the cheif engineer of Punjab, had a master plan for Amritsar. The master plan had the Golden temple at its epicentre. He conducted alot of works. Frankly, the lost palace is the last thing on my mind. The one that is permanently on my mind is the one that I think Sikh scholars mistakingly dismiss. They dismiss it because, alot of them are not based in England and so do not have a good understanding of what a traditional English village church looks like. I'm talking here about the clock tower at the Golden temple. John Gordon built a church there. A proper English villahe church. All the old photos of Amritsar show it as Amritsars most imposing structure, which, of course, was the purpose all along. But....sikh scholars, dismiss it as simply a spire with a weather vane on top. If thats the case, then every time we uk sikhs drive home after work, just remember all those village churches we see, built in the 18th century, that look exactly like the one built at the golden temple, are not churches at all. They're simply spires with weather vanes on top. Apparently.
As for the palace....That looked like a beautifully crafted building. Would have been wonderfull to keep it .

I think it was a disgusting and outrageous eyesore to ever even dared to put a christian clock tower church at the heart of Sikhdom. I for one am glad that its gone. Had it been anywhere else in punjab I would not have minded but at darbar sahib was just smacks of religious and cultural white christian imperialism.

Imagine Sikh army over running the Vatican in Italy and constructing a darbar sahib complex right next to the church there. It was a blatant attempt at christian missionaries to convert the former Sikh empire and its inhabitants to the ways of the christian western ideology. Not only Sikhs had to contend surviving Islamic hordes and Hindus trying to engulf them with their non-sikh ideologies and armies. Our ancestors also had to conduct with these Christian zealots from aboard. And to this day the christian missionaries are working hard to convert the inhabitants of punjab to Christianity with usual tricks and monetary incentives.